All About Retinoids

Retinol. Retinal. Retinoid. What’s the difference? Is it just a case of semantics – you know, a bit tom-ay-to/tom-ah-to? After all, they are all derivatives of vitamin A, and they all feature in various skincare products because they all deliver various benefits for the skin. The simple answer is not all retinol products are created equal, so read on and equip yourself – and your skin – with the facts and the right products.

Considered something of a hero ingredient, ‘retinol’ products are one of a family of ingredients called retinoids. All the different retinoids have different benefits, strengths, and potential irritations. The various names include retinoic acid, retinal and retinol. Trinny Woodall likens retinoids to cheese, which weirdly makes sense, as there are different varieties and different strengths. Most people quite like cheese, even if only on a pizza – but, let’s face it, eating mild cheddar is not the same as enjoying a smelly blue. Yuck.

What are Retinoids?

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives. We can’t make our own vitamin A, so we need to get it from our diet: foods such as leafy green vegetables such as spinach and curly kale, orange veg like carrots and sweet potatoes (as well as those tom-ay-to/tom-ah-toes!), liver, and eggs. A caveat, though – if you’re pregnant, you mustn’t overdo the Vitamin A, so you should avoid liver and liver products. Although eating vitamin A-rich foods is essential for health, it doesn’t make much difference to the skin. Retinoids must be applied directly to the skin to reap those benefits.

Retinoids’ complexion-boosting benefits first became apparent way back in the 40s. That’s when retinol was initially prescribed to treat acne, whereupon scientists began to notice impressive anti-ageing results. It’s only really since the 80s that retinoids have been widely used for their wrinkle-reducing and skin-smoothing properties.

Retinol – Skin Miracle?

Is retinol’s reputation as a skincare miracle worker deserved? Well, retinoid devotees certainly believe so. What can retinoids do for your skin?

• Reduce fine lines and wrinkles: Retinoids can encourage collagen production, which naturally decreases as we age, causing loss of smoothness and firmness. A collagen boost can improve the skin’s appearance tremendously.
• Brighter and more even skin tone: ageing also leads to a slower cell turnover rate, which in turn causes dullness. Retinoids can boost the process, helping the skin to behave and look like younger skin. Retinol can also fade pigmentation.
• Clear and prevent breakouts: yet another perk of increased cell turnover due to pores not being blocked. Retinal has antibacterial properties.
• Promote skin’s resilience: Retinoids help the skin’s defence mechanisms against external stresses and moisture retention.

What are the Different Forms of Retinoid?

The different types of retinoids are:

• Retinoic acid: The most powerful retinoid in its fully active form, retinoic acid is only available on prescription.
• Retinal is the second highest strength of retinoid, which converts to retinoic acid once absorbed by the skin. Best for normal/blemish-prone skin
• Retinol, the third highest strength, is the most widely used form of retinoid for skin care. It can cause irritation as its conversion to retinoic acid begins on the skin’s surface. As such, it’s best for normal or oily skin that isn’t too sensitive.

This is important to know, as not all retinoid products are created equal and cheaper products are often a false economy, as they’ll lack the best ingredients and thus may not help your skin at all.

Recommended Retinol with Results

We use Alumier’s pure potent retinol serum, which dramatically improves the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, blemishes, and skin texture and evens out the skin tone. Alumier uses ‘microencapsulated’ retinol, which allows for gradual timed release overnight. By encapsulating the retinol and adding soothing and hydrating ingredients like niacinamide, honey, and sodium hyaluronate, results are maximised with no discomfort or dryness.

The science bit (aka key ingredients):

• Anti-acne: Niacinamide
• Antioxidant: Camellia Sinensis (Tea) Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate
• Cell-communicating ingredient: Niacinamide, Retinol, Tetrapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
• Exfoliant: Gluconolactone
• Skin brightening: Niacinamide
• Skin-identical ingredient: Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate
• Soothing: Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Camellia Sinensis (Tea) Extract, Tetrapeptide-14, Boswellia Serrata Extract

Try it. We think you’ll be as impressed as we are.

What Should We Know About Retinoids?

Although we know prevention is always better than cure, there’s no point in using retinoids until you start to see fine lines and wrinkles. These skin changes only begin once collagen production and cell turnover start to slow, and using retinoids prior to that won’t help. However, if you’re an acne sufferer, your doctor may well prescribe strong retinoids, which are proven to improve acne.

Retinoids are not without their reactions and contraindications. When you first start to use them, you may experience irritation, redness, or flaky skin. This is usually short-lived and improves as the skin becomes accustomed to the retinoids. Many skin-specific retinoids include ingredients which soothe any irritation.

Vital to know is that retinoids make skin more sensitive to the sun, but when using retinoids, it’s absolutely critical. Those whose skin is already irritated or inflamed and rosacea, eczema or psoriasis sufferers should seek expert advice. Please remember retinoids are not suitable for pregnant women.

How Do I Use Retinoids?

It’s always best to use retinoids at night. First, as we’ve said, retinoids make skin more photo-sensitive, and sunlight can reduce their potency and, therefore their efficacy. Also, overnight, the skin isn’t under threat from pollution and UV as we sleep, so can just quietly get on with absorbing the products and their multiple benefits!

As with any new skincare or health regime, it’s advisable to start gradually and carefully while paying close attention to your skin and noticing any changes or improvements. Perhaps begin by applying your retinoid twice a week before building up if your skin responds well. Results from using retinol are gradual, so consistency is key. If any irritation occurs, ask an expert for advice.

The Best Anti-Ageing Skincare Routine

Looking after your skin and minimising the signs of ageing isn’t rocket science – but it IS science. It’s important to employ skincare practices and choose skincare products to target specific concerns. Those concerns include lines, wrinkles, dullness, sagging, hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.

• Cleanser: Use a gentle, hydrating cleanser to cleanse your face morning and night. Avoid harsh cleansers that can strip the skin of its natural oils.
• Exfoliation: Incorporate exfoliation into your routine to promote cellular turnover and improve skin texture. This can be done using chemical exfoliants (like alpha hydroxy acids – AHAs or beta hydroxy acids – BHAs) a few times a week, depending on your skin’s tolerance.
• Antioxidants: Antioxidant-rich serums with ingredients like vitamin C can help protect your skin from environmental damage and promote collagen production.
• Retinoids/Retinol: Consider using a retinoid or retinol product to address fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin texture. Start with a lower strength and gradually increase to minimize potential irritation.
• Moisturiser with at least SPF30, ideally SPF50 for daytime and a richer night cream.

Wellness for Your Skin

We can assess your skin, address your concerns, and formulate the perfect skincare routine for you and your skin. Better still, with our reminder service, we can make sure you NEVER run out of your products. Our service and advice are always 100% personal and tailored to you – but our clever new system utilises technology to keep totally up to date with your needs, orders and supplies. Patients can even choose virtual consultations, which will include a full breakdown of current product use and what changes are needed to meet their skin goals. All products can be ordered and delivered to your door ready to use – whether that’s skincare, home peels or masks. We’ll provide you with full, step-by-step instructions and a support number in case you need help or advice.

Contact us today, and let’s help you look and FEEL better.